| Location/Link | Brief Description |
|---|---|
| ArlbergResort Klösterle* | Our modern apartment complex with a pool, wellness area, and convenient ski bus service. |
| SPAR Village Store Klösterle | Supermarket right next to our lodging and at the ski bus stop. |
| Ski Bus Stop at Hotel Post, Stuben | Our recommended starting point for the ski area. |
| Skibase Arlberg | Our ski rental shop with online reservations and personalized advice. |
| Official Ski Arlberg App | Navigation between slopes and lifts, as well as snow, weather, and operating information. |
| Interactive Ski Arlberg Trail Map | Overview of all ski resort areas, runs, and lifts. |
| Ski Arlberg Lift Ticket Prices | Official prices for one-day and multi-day ski passes. |
| Ski Arlberg Ticket Shop | Information and access to online ski pass booking. |
| Sennhütte, St. Anton | Our recommendation for an especially delicious Kaiserschmarrn. |
| Restaurant das GUAT | A cozy restaurant with a sunroom, excellent cuisine, and a fine selection of wines. |
| Gasthof Post, Dalaas | Creative cuisine featuring especially good beef tartare and game dishes. |
| Wirtshaus Engel, Klösterle | Traditional tavern with cozy, wood-paneled dining rooms. |
| Restaurant Seestüble | Simple, hearty cuisine with generous portions, such as fried chicken and cordon bleu. |
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300 kilometers of slopes, 85 lifts, and a ski area that’s far from fully explored even after three full days of skiing: Ski Arlberg is Austria’s largest contiguous ski area. But does bigger automatically mean better?
We spent four nights in Klösterle and explored various areas around Stuben, St. Anton, Zürs, and Lech from there. Along the way, we experienced impressive mountain landscapes, modern lifts, and some truly beautiful runs. However, there was one aspect that didn’t quite live up to our expectations: the quality of the slopes.
Here, we’ll summarize our experiences and give you practical tips on accommodations, the ski bus, ski rentals, the best runs, restaurants, and the cost of our ski vacation.
Our Accommodation: ArlbergResort Klösterle
We deliberately chose Klösterle for our ski vacation. The town is located a bit off the beaten path from the better-known winter sports centers in the Arlberg region and served as a pleasant base for us.
We stayed at the ArlbergResort Klösterle*, a modern apartment resort with a largely automated check-in process. Our apartment was spacious, exceptionally clean, and equipped with high-quality amenities. We found the fully equipped kitchen—complete with an oven, dishwasher, and various coffee makers—particularly convenient.
The resort also features a heated pool, sauna, wellness area, fitness center, underground parking garage, and a separate ski storage room. The bread roll delivery service, which can be booked online, worked reliably for us as well.
For us, however, the biggest advantage was the location: right next to the resort is a SPAR supermarket, the ski bus stops right in front of it, and several restaurants are within walking distance. That’s especially nice after a long day of skiing.
At about 1,300 euros for four nights for two people, the accommodation wasn’t cheap. But given the amenities, cleanliness, and location, we’d choose it again in a heartbeat.
Getting There, Ski Bus, and Ski Rental
We drove from the Frankfurt area—more specifically, from Aschaffenburg. Taking the A3, A7, and A96 highways and crossing the Austrian border near Lindau, the trip to Klösterle took just under four and a half hours.
From our lodging, we then took the ski bus to the ski resort. During our stay, the bus ran about every 15 minutes. Exact departure times may vary depending on the season and schedule.
Our tip: Ride to the Hotel Post stop in Stuben. There, you can buy your ski pass and, after a short walk, start your day on the slopes. In the mornings, the buses were surprisingly empty. In the afternoon, however—especially around 4 p.m.—they got significantly more crowded.
We had reserved our ski gear online in advance through Skibase Arlberg. We were impressed by both the value for money and the on-site advice. The staff member took plenty of time to help us select the right skis and boots and gave us helpful tips on the current snow conditions.
Ski Arlberg: A Huge Ski Resort with Modern Infrastructure
With around 300 kilometers of groomed runs, 85 chairlifts and lifts, and more than 200 kilometers of additional deep-snow runs, Ski Arlberg offers enormous possibilities.
The interconnected area links, among others, St. Anton, St. Christoph, Stuben, Zürs, Lech, Oberlech, and Warth-Schröcken. Even after three full days of skiing, we didn’t even come close to feeling like we’d seen everything.
We particularly liked the modern lift infrastructure. Many enclosed gondola lifts and comfortable chairlifts ensure that you can move quickly through the area. There are comparatively few classic T-bar lifts.
We were also pleasantly surprised by the wait times. Although Ski Arlberg is very well-known, we were able to board most lifts with virtually no wait. Only in a few places, such as around Zürs, did lines occasionally form.
Thanks to the resort’s enormous size, winter sports enthusiasts are also well spread out across the various runs. We often found ourselves on slopes that were surprisingly uncrowded.
Our top tip: The Ski Arlberg app
In such a large ski resort, finding your way around can be a challenge. Although the slopes are signposted, we had trouble finding certain runs or connections on several occasions.
That’s why we strongly recommend downloading the official Ski Arlberg app before your ski vacation.
The app provides information on open lifts, slopes, snow conditions, and weather. The built-in navigation is especially helpful: You select your destination, and it shows you which slopes and lifts you’ll need to take to get there.
We’ve needed this feature many times. Because if you get lost on the Arlberg, you might have to take several extra lifts to get back on your planned route.
Our Favorite Downhill Runs in Arlberg
For us, one of Ski Arlberg’s greatest strengths is its runs, some of which are exceptionally long. Here, you don’t find yourself back on the lift every few minutes; instead, you can enjoy really long runs on your skis.
Our personal favorite was the combination of runs 100 and 85 from the Schindler Spitze toward Stuben. The run is long, varied, and offers exactly the kind of skiing experience we particularly enjoy.
Equally impressive is the course of the legendary “Der Weiße Rausch” ski race near St. Anton. The race runs from the Vallugagrat for about 7.5 kilometers and descends more than 1,300 meters in elevation toward the valley. This area vividly demonstrates just how challenging parts of the ski resort are.
Another technical highlight is the Galzigbahn in St. Anton. At the valley station, the gondolas are lifted to a different level via an extraordinary wheel mechanism. It’s fascinating just to watch.
In addition to challenging runs, the Arlberg also offers practice slopes, child-friendly areas, fun slopes, and fun parks. The resort is by no means aimed exclusively at very experienced skiers.
Caution on ski routes and deep-snow runs
Another part of the ski area is the Rendl, located on the opposite side of St. Anton. If you’re coming from the Galzigbahn, you’ll need to ski through the town for about five minutes to reach it.
We had an important experience at the Rendl: We came across a lift whose top station led only to an unprepared ski route from there.
Therefore, be sure to pay close attention to the signage and difficulty ratings before boarding a lift. Not every route automatically leads back via a standard groomed ski run.
Furthermore, the numerous deep-snow options in the Arlberg region are not comparable to standard slopes. Anyone venturing off-piste requires appropriate experience, safety equipment, and knowledge of avalanche conditions. If in doubt, it’s advisable to be accompanied by a qualified guide.
Snow and Slope Quality: Our Biggest Criticism
As impressed as we were by the size and infrastructure, our impression of the slope quality was mixed.
Ski Arlberg advertises an average of about nine meters of natural snow per winter season. During our stay, however, we didn’t experience optimal snow conditions.
In some areas of the mountain, snow depths of about 150 centimeters were reported. On the slopes themselves, however, we often had a different impression. In addition, the snow cannons ran practically the entire day in some spots.
Overall, we found the slope conditions during our three days of skiing to be only average. Not bad, but not as good as we’d hoped beforehand.
To be fair, it’s important to note that this is always just a snapshot. Snow conditions, temperatures, and weather can change significantly within just a few days. With better natural snow conditions, Ski Arlberg can certainly present a very different picture.
Nevertheless, the magnificent mountain panorama and the many varied runs ensured that we had a lot of fun on the slopes.
Dining in Arlberg: Our Restaurant Recommendations
For us, a successful ski vacation isn’t just about great slopes. A good goulash soup, Kaiserschmarrn, or a cozy dinner are just as much a part of it.
We also had some truly wonderful culinary experiences during our trip.
Sennhütte in St. Anton: Our personal highlight on the mountain. The Kaiserschmarrn was sensational and ranked among the best culinary experiences of our ski vacation. We’d come back for that alone any time.
Restaurant das GUAT in Klösterle: The winter garden here is especially cozy. Among other things, we had tomatoes with burrata and steak with grilled vegetables. Combined with the excellent wine selection, this was a clear recommendation for us.
Gasthof Post in Dalaas: We were particularly impressed by the creative cuisine here. The beef tartare with plums, fried egg yolk, and pearl onions stands out in our memory. The venison loin steak was also a hit.
Wirtshaus Engel in Klösterle: A cozy restaurant with classic wood-paneled dining rooms. We started with the “Engel-Gedeck”—house-baked bread, butter, herb salt, and chives. For the main course, we had, among other things, a skewer of vegetables and spätzle. We were very satisfied here as well.
Seestüble in Klösterle: If you prefer something a bit more down-to-earth and come with a big appetite, you’re in good hands here. Our fried chicken and the cordon bleu with fries were delicious, and the portions were exceptionally generous. Since opening hours may vary by season, you should check them before visiting.
Overall, the food was a major highlight of our trip. The location of our lodging proved to be a real advantage here as well, since we were able to reach several restaurants without having to drive long distances.
How much does a ski vacation in Arlberg cost?
Ski Arlberg isn’t one of the more affordable winter sports destinations. Accommodations and ski passes, in particular, can put a significant strain on your travel budget.
For our trip, we paid approximately the following amounts:
- Accommodation: 1,300 euros for four nights for two people at the ArlbergResort Klösterle.
- Ski pass: about 250 euros per person for three days of skiing.
- Additional costs: ski rentals, travel to the destination, restaurants, and other expenses on-site.
The amounts listed refer to our stay and are not universally applicable current prices. Depending on the season, travel dates, and accommodations, costs can vary significantly.
For the money, however, you get an exceptionally large, contiguous ski area with modern infrastructure and plenty of variety for several days.
Our conclusion: Is Ski Arlberg worth it?
After three full days of skiing, our overall conclusion is positive, even though not everything won us over.
Ski Arlberg’s greatest strengths are its size, the modern lift systems, the mostly short wait times, and, above all, the long, varied runs. Added to this are an impressive mountain panorama and many different options for various skill levels.
We would also book our accommodations at the ArlbergResort Klösterle again. The high standard, the quiet location, and the short distances to the ski bus, supermarket, and restaurants were a great combination for us.
Our biggest criticism was the quality of the slopes, which was only average during our stay. Of course, this can be quite different under other snow conditions.
We can still recommend Ski Arlberg. Especially those who enjoy long runs, appreciate modern lifts, and want to spend several days on the slopes will find excellent conditions here.
However, it doesn’t quite make it into our personal top 3 of ski resorts we’ve visited so far. After all, Austria’s largest ski resort isn’t necessarily the best for everyone.
And now we’d like to hear your opinion: What’s more important to you in a ski resort—as many kilometers of slopes and variety as possible, or consistently good slope quality?